On the Peep's Plate

Greg's rant on international media coverage of Japan. I agree!!

2011-03-18T18:08:00.000+09:00

If life were easy, it would be sooo boring!: The Most Dangerous Place in the world: Sitting in ...: "This gets a bit ranty, but here is an update for people who don't know how to find reliable news sources (sadly, a genuine problem): Today:..."

@cnnbrk, 11/03/13 18:45

2011-03-13T19:39:00.000+09:00

CNN Breaking News (@cnnbrk)
11/03/13 18:45
Japan Meteorological Agency has canceled all #tsunami advisories, according to statement issued Sunday. http://on.cnn.com/fA8njR

Sent from my iPhone

@rjbass73, 11/03/13 13:02

2011-03-13T13:21:00.001+09:00

Mr. Austin (@rjbass73)
11/03/13 13:02
Apple now taking Red Cross donations through iTunes for Japan relief fund http://bit.ly/gnPE8d #RETWEET

Sent from my iPhone

@rjbass73, 11/03/13 11:59

2011-03-13T13:20:00.000+09:00

Mr. Austin (@rjbass73)
11/03/13 11:59
My friend @midmassacre will have a fund raiser at @caffevitaginza, Ginza 6-12-12 on Monday. Contact for more details. #JapanEarthquake

Sent from my iPhone

Moving to Tumblr.com

2011-02-21T02:02:00.000+09:00

Hey! I'm moving this blog to Tumblr because it's just easier that way.
And it's not just going to be specific posts since they're super time consuming and stressful which is why I rarely update. I liked doing short updates with my iPhone but now this is easier! Maybe I'll come back and use this site for food again, like it was supposed to, so I'll keep it, but for now I'm on Tumblr.

Here's the new page: http://thepeep.tumblr.com/

What the hell is Tumblr? I don't really know either. It just lets me post texts, photos, etc. really fast and easily whenever I want and helps me "stay connected".

I`m backkkk

2011-02-14T10:22:00.000+09:00

Flew into Narita on Friday and while I was expecting it to be cold, I didn`t expect the snow. Delhi had warmed up to 22 degrees C during the day when I left which was a big change from the foggy 7 degrees at the beginning of this year. By March it must be blazing.

Anyway, I flew Singapore Air on the way back and they impressed me just as much as the first time I flew with them when I was 8 years old. Though I had a 2 hour layover in SIN, it was probably the most stress free and relaxing international air travel experience I`ve had. I sat in economy but even we were given satin covered pillows (or felt like it) that provided ample support, and there was plenty of leg room- American Airlines could learn a thing or two from that! And while it doesn`t hurt to have model-like flight attendants who are fluent in English, the service was outstanding, great from start to finish. Airline services are not limited to what you experience on the plane but includes the before and after the flight, from purchasing the ticket to the time you walk out of the airport of your final destination. Check-In at Delhi was smooth and hassle free. The layover was actually a highlight of the trip. Changi is a beautiful airport and is described best with their slogan, "The Feeling is First Class". The Mrs. Fields cookies and free wifi kept me busy but next time I'd love to check out their nature trails like the butterfly garden and koi pond! And the in-flight service was top notch. They served the Singapore Sling, probably the classiest cocktail I've had served in a plastic cup (it wasn't the flimsy kind either), and for free! Dinner was actually delicious with the generous portion of chicken cooked to perfection: juicy, tender and still hot! Oh, and there's ice cream for everyone!

Though the entertainment system was a bit dated, they had a nice selection of movies and tv shows. I got to watch The Social Network and they had Little Miss Sunshine and PS I Love You- two of my all time favorites!

So the flight back home was good but what about the past month when I've been MIA? It was great too! Life-changing actually. I gained farm-work experience that I've been looking for, interacted with the locals despite the language barrier, and ate some amazing food. I took tons of notes everyday I was there so now I just have to go back edit them. It's going to take a while but my tours don't start til March and it's too cold outside to even think about leaving the room so I'm sure I will finish on time. And yes, lots of photos to go through and edit.. somewhere just under 4000 photos I believe...

Well, time to get started!

WWOOF

2011-01-09T13:44:00.002+09:00

I finally found a mutually agreeable WWOOFing opportunity in India. The man I met is Atul Jain who is a very kind and respectable man. I will be working with the Panchvati Foundation Goshala, in a remote village in the state of Madhya Pradesh. You can wiki goshalas but they are basically a protective shelter for cows, particularly "neglected" cows. I am very excited to be able to care for them, milk them and maybe learn how to make cheese and curd. I'm leaving tonight to go to follow Atul to Bhopal, the capital in Madhya Pradesh and then to Gotitoria, Gadarwara, Narsinghpur in a couple of days. I think I will be living with one of the families which I think will be a fun and great learning experience. I doubt I'll have much chance of contacting out of the village since we only get 9 hrs of electricity during the day, at most. My only concern is the temperature but I bought some warmer clothes and a blanket so I hope I can toughen up for once. I'm excited to get cut off from the world and I hope to find some peace and quiet. I'll be there until early Feb so I'll check back in then with pictures! Should be fun! Wish me luck!

How to drink chai

2011-01-08T23:02:00.000+09:00

Even in the dead heat of summer they drink chai hot. Usually too hot to even hold, so they pour it back and forth between the cup and dish. Simple and effective.

Thali

2011-01-08T22:59:00.000+09:00

It's all that I eat now since it's flavorful, filling, and cheap, and I think it's pretty healthy. My favorite side is the cooked banana (second on the left). I also love it because I can easily eat it with my hand. Yes, I have reached the point where I prefer to use my hands rather than utensils. On the plane to Delhi, they served lunch and of course it came with a set of cutlery. I used the fork but I felt uncomfortable so I put it down and started digging in with my right hand. The Indian man sitting next to me gave me a look. I gave him the same look back when he licked his knife.

Kumily

2011-01-08T22:52:00.002+09:00

After recovering in Kochi, we headed to Kumily and Periyar wildlife preserve. There we took a spice and tea plantation tour and chilled out in the cooler climate in this hill region.

Did you know that the bark of bay leaf plant is dried to cinnamon? At least thats what the guide said. He also said Ayurvedic herbal treatments are mostly 100% effective, with a 10-15 year treatment, of course.

Tea plants

2011-01-08T22:52:00.001+09:00

All those tea bushes lining the hillside. It made for a very scenic bus ride, to distract from the hair pin turns and pothole bumps every 10 feet.

Allappey beach

2011-01-08T22:52:00.000+09:00

New years day we met up with JM in Allappey. The beach isn't like those in Goa and I don't recommend swiming here bc the waves are rough but it's still beach and still beautiful. I really enjoyed walking barefoot on the sand. It wish I wasn't so distracted while I was here.

I'm still alive

2011-01-07T22:45:00.000+09:00

Hey, sorry I'm been MIA. I'm back to health, well, as much as one can be when traveling in India. I'm not a 100% well but enough to get by.

Sophie gave me to boot. I was really panicked and overwhelmed with what to do by myself but somewhere in the chaos of my calculating mind, my gut called out to me and told me to go north. So, I took a plane from Kochin International and flew to Delhi. It's freezing here, at least compared to the last month I spent in the south. I stayed in a miserable cheapo hotel that was freezing so mom came to the rescue and is treating me to a nice place. I'm now convinced however that 'hot water' doesn't really exist here, well, at least not within my budget. I'm used to taking baths at 42 C at least. It's like when we went to Budapest. The "hot tub" was pretty cold to me. Oh well, I really should stop being such a princess anyway, if it's the one thing I get out of being here. That's the thing, I feel like I should be taking away more, or getting more out of being here but right now all I can claim is confusion, agitation, feeling lost and exhaustion. I'm in Delhi and I should go see the sights, hell, I should go to the Taj but I feel so resistant, like I dont have it in me to go and appreciate and take photos and all that tourist jazz. I'm just so tired of it all. But I'm here and I should take the opportunity.. I don't know, I feel like the only reason to go is because people expect me to and so that I can claim that I went and saw it. But I don't have much personal desire.. maybe once I figure out what I'm doing for the rest of my time here then I'll get my energy back.

So today, in Delhi, I wanted to just walk around and then go back to my hotel early and chill in bed but instead, as I was walking around, a man followed me, talking to me, asking questions and I ended up spending the day with him. I know he sounds totally shady but he was really nice and non-evasive. I could have told him to leave me alone but I figured that he didnt annoy me so much so I let him keep asking questions. He turned out to be really helpful. He showed me a great restaurant, kept my company as I ate and then he took me to the residential area of Delhi and to the bazaar that the locals shop at. There was a catch, as always and that was that at the end of the day, I follow him to his store and have a look around, so I did. I came away with a new pair of earrings, good price. He also said he could help me with tours and whatnot, they all do but it's nice to have someone as a reliable resource here.

Actually, tomorrow morning I'm meeting up with another guy near the hotel. He owns an organic farm in a state south of here. I got his contact info through WWOOF. If everything works out I'll go work on a farm for the rest of my stay here and that would be amazing! They have cows so I will be able to milk them and make cheese, yogurt and other dairy products. That would be so cool!!! I really hope it works out. If not, I guess I'll head to Varanasi and spend a week or two there and then fly home early. I dont miss Tokyo but I do miss Yuma terribly. And my wine bar. And Glenn and my Nepalese friends. And sushi. And being in a familiar environment where more things make sense to me. But that's it! ;)

Alrighty, my executive suite is calling me (not as fancy as it sounds but pretty darn nice compared to the backpackers places I've been staying. Actually, I prefer the backpackers lodges better when it's warm, but I crumble in the cold ><).

Please don't worry, I'm fine. Sure I kind of feel anxious about not having solid plans right now but that's part of the fun, right? OK well, I'll just keep telling myself that.

Hospital

2010-12-29T05:09:00.000+09:00

I'm not surprised I ended up in the ER here. Ever since the first visit when I was 16, I seem to not be able to stay away from hospitals for too long. I take care of my body- I'm conscious of what I eat and I'm pretty active. I consider myself healthy. My weakness, however, is stress. And I usually don't realize the stress until I've exhausted my body's immune system and some part has shut down. They were my kidneys two weeks ago (the usual target), but this time it was my digestion system.

I wont go into the details but I think it was IBS or traveler's diarrhea. Anyways, I had horrible cramping pains so I went to the ER. I got set up with rehydrating fluids from the IV and several antibiotic shots. The first one went into my side, and let me just say, I had never experienced anything more painful than that shot. I gripped Sophie's hands and scream profanities at the top of my lungs until the nurse pulled it out and I cried for a minute after. Then when I turned on my back, still whimpering and eyes wet with tears, the nurse, without asking, stuck her fingers into my mouth and lifted my upper lip to see the back of my Monroe piercing. She let out a laugh and walked away. I was dumbfounded by what just happened and how she took advantage of my vulnerability, so I laughed too. Oh India.

Just when I was feeling better from the IV and ready to be discharged, the piercing pain returned. The doctor suggested I go to a bigger hospital with better equipment so Sophie and I climbed into the cab and went to another ER.

We had a wonderfully caring taxi driver. His name was Augustine. Pretty appropriate name considering it was Christmas Day and all. He waited for us, walked us through the hospital system, took us to the other hospitals (I went to three in total) and didn't ask for the fare. Of course I took care of him.

Now I have a goodie bag of various pills and the experience of being treated in hospitals in India. It was great. The doctors and nurses were attentive, the ERs weren't crowded so I was cared for immediately, and I just paid everything in cash up front. One thing that really stood out was how the doctors asked for my opinion instead of ordering a bunch of tests. They asked if I wanted an ECG and if I wanted to be admitted. I took the ECG but declined being admitted. It felt weird to have a choice. Maybe they give choices in the States or Japan, I mean I guess I could always say no, but I never felt like I had one.

Anyway, I'm feeling better now. I'm still recovering and still have pills to take but I'm sure that in a couple days I'll be ready to eat some masala dosas and dhal with my chapati.

Fort Kochin

2010-12-28T16:25:00.005+09:00

This is a photo of the giant fishing nets brought over by Chinese traders. It takes the strength of at least four people to pull and lift the net. They allow tourists to pull on it for a fee and I think they still use it, though I don't know if I would eat anything caught in that harbor.

Mob

2010-12-28T16:25:00.004+09:00

Christmas Day, Sophie and I decided to venture to Fort Kochin. To get there from the mainland we decided to take the ferry. The line at the ticket booth was packed! People were squashed, pushing and shoving each other. The line snaked through the whole warehouse. People, once they bought the tickets, had to climb onto the ticket booth and over those pushing from behind, just to get out. It was madness! This is INDIA!

Lucky for us, there was a separate line for women. But they were just as aggressive and I definitely got felt up, unintentionally of course. We spent an hour just to get those 2.50r tickets. I half wished there were scalpers.

The whole experience came off so strange to me. Surely there must be a better system. Do they enjoy all the pushing, shoving, suffocation, and the disorganization? I dont understand why they would put up with any of this and not try to change the system. But I guess this is just what they prefer and what they are accustomed to so being an outsider, it's not my place to judge.

I've been here for a month and the honeymoon period of my experience in India has ended. I'm getting tired of the stares, the honking, the language barrier, the bargaining, and the possible health risks I have to asses at every meal. But if there's one thing I take away from reading Shantaram, it's that I have to surrender to the people, the culture, the system; to India. I have a month and a half left. Sure I can survive by just getting used to it but if I want to take anything away from this trip, I have to surrender and give myself up. It sounds difficult and it's definitely easier said than done, but that's my goal. I came here without a real agenda, and I feel like I've been floating around for the past month but now I have focus. This will change me and I welcome it.

Shantaram is a giant novel (900+ pages) by Gregory David Roberts about an Australian fugitive's life in Bombay during the 1980s. It's a great read- I gobbled it up in just over a week. I highly recommend it.

Self portrait 2

2010-12-28T16:25:00.003+09:00

Self portrait

2010-12-28T16:25:00.002+09:00

Scenes from the train 2

2010-12-28T16:25:00.001+09:00

Scenes from the train

2010-12-28T16:25:00.000+09:00

Train food

2010-12-28T16:24:00.001+09:00

There isn't a dining car, at least not for the three tiered sleeper class seats we booked. Instead, when trains stop in one of the larger stations, portable food vendors come by to the window or onto the train. There's chai, ice cream, fruit juices, chips, and even toys. They also have small convenient stands on the platforms we can run to for drinks and snacks.

This man sold savory doughnuts. It tasted like potato and he served it with a green chili dip. I don't know what they're called, they have a complicated name. They were yummy and popular with the other passengers.

At one station I ventured out to buy a bottle of water. It cost 12r so I gave the man a 20r bill. He frowned and started searching for coins. He put 3r worth of coins on the counter and a chocolate bar. I was confused, I didn't want a chocolate bar. Then he pointed to the MRP on the package which said 5r. Oh, I see. That chocolate bar was part of my change since he didn't have any. I would have questioned the logic further but I didn't want to miss the train so I took it and enjoyed the treat. It's 5r, no biggie.

18 hours

2010-12-28T16:24:00.000+09:00

That's how long it takes to cover the 850km from Margao in Goa to Kochi in Kerala on a semi local train. Sophie and I spent the time sleeping, playing Rummy (43 games to be exact), and taking in the scenery from the open carriage doors. It's dangerous but I love the thrill of standing there with the wind blowing through my clothes and getting a glimpse of the country side. Though I almost got hit by the trash people threw out from windows, it was still a lovely experience.

And then there were two

2010-12-22T19:18:00.001+09:00

JM bought a motorcycle. Sophie and I will continue by train, bus and rickshaws. I cannot help but feel a bit apprehensive of the separation and worry for his safety. But at the same time, I am happy and excited for him and jealous of the wondrous bad-ass adventure he is sure to have.

Safe travels JM, and may one of the many Hindu gods help you.

Indian postal service

2010-12-22T19:10:00.000+09:00

What a headache, I'm sad to say. I realize that each country has their own system which ties together their unique traditions and perception of efficiency.

This is all fine of course, as long as you correctly and efficiently inform those who are new to the system. Sophie and I had a heck of a time at the Chaudi post office. The clerk gave out instructions one at a time which we found annoying and a waste of time.

Yesterday was our second attempt since they were randomly closed last Friday. The office, when it is open, only opens until 1pm. We got there yesterday in the late morning and the gate was open. We walked in and stood in a haphazard, orderless gathering of people around a window. After some time, we realized that it was the wrong line so we shift out stance to the other haphazard, orderless gathering of people around another window. When we finally grabbed the attention of the clerk, she told us our packages must be pre-wrapped by white cloth, a service done by a tailor. Where's the tailor? Just go left she said.

We walked left and found a tailor but he shook his head and directed us to another establishment, behind the pharmacy. We turned the corner at the pharmacy and found three seamstresses busily working away on ancient manual sewing machines amongst piles of scraps of cloth and cut out photos of various styles of sawer kameezes. We asked to have our packages wrapped so they took them, measured some cloth, snipped, snapped and began sewing the cloth around them.

In the mean time, we went to get two photo copies of our passport, as required by the post. We asked the seamstresses and were directed across the street. When we found the shop and asked for copies, the power went out. We returned to pick up our wrapped package, annoyed to have to wait another day. But as we were about to leave, the power came back on so I rushed to the copier. We made copies of the passport photo page as well as the visa, just in case.

We returned to the post office, wrote the addresses directly on the cloth and waited back in the non-line. After waiting a good amount and glaring at the Indian men and women who tried to shove their papers or what have you out from behind us to the window, we got the clerks attention, again. This time she gave each of us a form to fill out regarding the contents of the packages. We stood at the counter to write them to not lose our place in the non-line. When we finished, we handed her the form, the copies and the packages. We were just about to pay when the clerk told Sophie she could not send her package because it contained a laptop.

Sophie: 'Why can't I send it?'
Clerk: 'It will break.'
Sophie: 'But I don't care if it breaks.'
Clerk: 'No, the authorities will scan the package and send it back because it will break. You must use a private service.'
Sophie: 'Oh for Pete sakes!'

Lucky for me, mine went through. But poor Sophie, now she has to carry around a big white box. We went looking for a DHL or FedEx but had no luck. We found a parcel service but they use the Indian post system so there's no point. Hopefully there'll be a place in Madgao while we wait for the train.

King's beer

2010-12-21T17:12:00.000+09:00

This is how we like to start our dinners: drinks to go with the spectacular sunset and an appetizing game of UNO.

Chai shop

2010-12-21T17:11:00.000+09:00

We walked out of the main drag of Patnem to explore the locale area. We came to a small tea shop. As we sipped on some chai, I noticed a man across the room dipping some biscuits in his tea. He caught my gaze and smiled. Monkey see, monkey do so we ordered the biscuits and did the same. They were nutty biscuits, like the almond cookies at Chinese joints in the States. Of course it was delicious!

If for some unfortunate reason I went unbearably broke and had to cut my already thrifty expenses then I'd happily make a meal of and live off of the combination. Three teas and three biscuits came to a total of 21 Rupees. I feel like a thief.

Passage to India

2010-12-21T17:08:00.000+09:00

Gin, pomegranate juice, lime juice, and honey. Refreshing.

Vindaloo

2010-12-21T00:27:00.002+09:00

I decided to try this famously spicy Goan curry known as Vindaloo. There are stories about getting Englishmen and other foreigners pissed drunk and then challenging them to eat and finish a bowl of Vindaloo.
I love spicy food, but by American standards, by which I feel compelled to specify after eating in Thailand. Their "normal" spicy leaves me teary-eyed.

I was impressed with the Vindaloo. It was blood red, like some sinister witch's brew. I dipped the tip of my spoon into the curry and took a gentle taste. I was pleasantly surprised by the smokey sweetness of the red chili peppers and I the curry. Just as I was about to declare my love, a roar of flaming and excruciating heat engulfed and suffocated the sweetness and spitefully distinguished my hope of having a handle on the dish. It came with a good serving of rice but I realized I would not be able to finish the curry without ordering more.

Despite the reality of a quick inevitable defeat, I soldiered on, eating as much curry with the rice provided. With the aid of a sweet lassi, I was able to finish a third of the curry before the rice ran out. My eyes were wet with tears and my nose ready to sprint. I put the fork down and gave up. For what it's worth, I think I did a damn good job.

I don't know how the Goans do it, eating such a spicy dish in this heat. But it's impressive and worthy of respect.
How would you fair in the Vindaloo challenge?

Palolem

2010-12-17T16:40:00.002+09:00

Patnem beach

2010-12-17T16:40:00.001+09:00

Sleeping on the beach.

2010-12-17T16:04:00.000+09:00

Our bus was supposed to get in at 4:30am. Instead we arrived an hour early. The dropped us off at some lonely intersection. Two rickshaw drivers met us and another two girls who wanted to continue on to another beach. The drivers were asking 100r to go 4km. Earlier we spent 100r to go 30km. The driver wouldn't bargain so we geared up and headed for the beach.

Palolem has a long drag of shops, restaurants and guest houses. The street runs parallel to the beach but in the dark, we didn't realize this and it felt like we would never reach the sand. We finally figured it out and step foot onto Palolem's fine grain white sand beach. We decided to chill out there until sunrise. It felt great to just sit there, under the brilliantly lit stars, listening to the gentle waves as we waited. I fell asleep for a bit but the cold got to me. After an hour we decided to call a place listed in Rough Guides. It was 5 am but I know a lot of these places are eager for business so I didn't feel too bad waking the receptionist. He had a room for us for 1000r a night, which is a deal considering how close we are to Christmas and New Years. It's in Patnem, a smaller, quieter beach just south of Palolem. This time we paid the 100r for a rickshaw since we already felt the weight of our 20kg bags.

We walked into our little hut, dropped the bags and crashed. JM had his own bed adorned with his own mosquito net (^-^).

Home

2010-12-17T15:14:00.002+09:00

Home is the name of the Swiss cafe in Patnem, just a few paces from where we're staying. It's the best dining experience I've had in a while. It's right on the beach so you can run the cool sand between your toes as you wait for your order. The decor is simple and tasteful and the menu is to die for especially when you've been starved for fresh and raw vegetables. Everything sounds amazing and they have an extensive black board menu which I take it as a good sign of a creative chef who uses whatever is fresh.

It is a bit pricy compared to what we've become used to but it's worth it! This morning I had their strawberry lassi and mozzarella, tomato, basil panin sandwich. FRESH BASIL!!!

JM got their wild mushroom salad and a chocolate shake. Sophie had their cappuchino which was excellent, yeay Lavazza! She also had their rosti, like hashbrowns topped with cheese and tomatoes, further topped by fried eggs. Yes, also delicious!

Rest stop

2010-12-17T15:13:00.000+09:00

We hopped on another overnight bus back to Goa, this time to Palolem. The bus rides are about 10 hrs long and they only stop once for about 20-30mins for dinner, usually around 10 pm. The food at these rest stops are basic, cheap, and the service is fast. Last night I just wanted some chipati bread but the man couldn't believe anyone would just want bread so he brought me some dhal too. It was fine; spicy and healthy. I shared it with Sophie. JM got chicken masala and that was awesome because it tasted like chicken in BBQ sauce. Mmm BBQ sauce...

Hampi Cheriot

2010-12-17T15:12:00.000+09:00

Hampi scenes 7

2010-12-17T14:15:00.000+09:00

If you come to Hampi, stay across the river from the bazaar. It's beautiful and peaceful. Plus most of the bars have nightly showings of movies. Tonight we have a choice of Into The Wild, Walk The Line, and The Big Lebowski. Also, alcohol is strictly prohibited in the bazaar so if you care for a drink after a day of playing out scenes from Indy, stay across the river. We'll be sipping White Russians tonight.

Hampi scenes 6

2010-12-17T14:14:00.000+09:00

Hampi scenes 5

2010-12-17T14:13:00.000+09:00

Hampi scenes 4

2010-12-17T14:12:00.000+09:00

I felt like Indiana Jones walking through this empty ruin.

Hampi scenes 3

2010-12-17T14:11:00.000+09:00

This boy enticed us to play with him by stealing our bottle of water.

Hampi scenes 2

2010-12-17T14:10:00.000+09:00

Sophie's first coconut juice

2010-12-17T14:09:00.000+09:00

Hampi Scenes

2010-12-17T14:08:00.001+09:00

The few sights we've seen are majestic- giant boulders protruding from the earth, piled high one on top of another; where the winds whisper through the cracks, gently eroding and carrying tales of time long disappeared and forgotten. In this increasingly over populated, over developed world, I have feared that I was too late experience the awe of untouched nature where the past silently resonates over the land. Yes Hampi is a tourist destination and the Hampi Bazaar has become known as a tourist trap but going just a short way out and I get to experience my own adventure and discovery.
I am humbled by the effortless beauty that spreads out before me.

Bucket shower

2010-12-17T14:07:00.000+09:00

Hot water is such a luxury in India and is not guaranteed just because you got a nice room. And when they do offer it, there are time restrictions. I hate to be the little princess that I am because I cannot take cold showers, even on the hottest of summer days. I can deal with the squat toilets, the dirty dishes and cockroach infested buses but I cannot take a cold shower.
Our room at Shanti does not come with hot running water. I found out early this morning. I went to reception and asked for hot water.
Man at reception: "what want?"
Me: "Is there any hot water?"
Man: "What room?"
Me: "21."
Man: "Ok, no problem. Wait 10 minutes."
I thought they were going to come turn on the water heater. Nope. 10 minutes later he came wobbling by with a bucket of steaming water in one hand. He dropped it off in front of the door and walked away.
Well, I wasn't going to take a cold shower so I brought it into the bathroom and had a go. It reminded me of the time I lived in Indonesia. I was five and my amas liked to have me all washed up before mom came home. We had a perfectly good working shower head but they insisted on filling the tub and using a cup to run the water over my head.
It worked out perfectly fine. I bet this method saves a ton on the water and gas bills. I would hate to do this in winter though.

Sleeper bus

2010-12-17T14:06:00.000+09:00

We took a two tier sleeper bus from Mapusa to Hampi. Sophie and I shared a double and JM had a single. The doubles are glorified cubby-holes with sliding traps that lock. Sophie and I aren't very tall so we were able to lay on the floor lined with soft cushioning. JM just had a sheet for privacy. It was pretty comfortable and I'm sure we would have slept had we not been booked at the seat over the back wheel and had the bus not screeched every few minutes.
We got into Hampi at 5am. We had to take a boat across the river to get to our accommodation but the first boat didn't go until 7am. We sipped on some warm chai and planned the rest of this grand trip as we waited for the sun and for Hampi to come alive.
We met a large group of school children who were brushing their teeth and washing up down at the banks of the river. Man I wish I could do that. Anyway, they're on a month long journey through their country to see all the main sights, funded by the government. What a great idea and opportunity for them!

Shanti Guest House

2010-12-17T14:05:00.000+09:00

Isn't this lovely? This is our hut. It's very peaceful, like a quiet oasis. We haven't seen much of Hampi yet but I think it's turning out to be an unexpected gem in the middle of the Indian subcontinent.

Andy, the paraglider

2010-12-13T19:03:00.003+09:00

Don't mind my retarded looking face.

Paragliding!!!

2010-12-13T19:03:00.002+09:00

I went paragliding!! Well, tandem paragliding, but it was awesome!!!!!! I was flying, through the air, above the trees; I was flying! Oh man it was great! I loved every second of just chilling in mid air and hanging out with the hawks and eagles.

I met up with the paraglider, Andy from Austria, and we each carried huge backpacks to a quieter beach just north of the main beach in Arambol. His contained the giant paragliding sheet and mine had the two seats. The packs were like 20 kilos each or more and the size of boulders. I felt like the nerdy kid in school who carried all his books in his backpack. But instead of being laughed at, I got mad props from everyone. That felt sweet.

Once we got to the beach, we had to climb up the hill. Andy does this everyday and is super fit. I tried my best to keep up and did pretty well, considering. He said I'm stronger than I look and that i did the hike better than others. Yeay!
I did find it difficult, though, with all that equipment, and I needed him to pull me up on some steps, but it felt great getting in a little work out after days of lounging on the beach.

We got to the top and we walked through a clearing of tall grass. I stepped over some cow dung- I didnt realize cows climbed up that high.

We walked a bit further and came to an edge that overlooked the semi-secluded beach Sophie, JM, and I came across the day we took the bikes out. Andy took out the sheet and told me to chill while he set up. I didn't have a clue how this was going down so I went over the possible options. Boy was I in for a surprise.

He called me over, fastened the seat harness around my legs, did the same for himself and linked my seat to his so I would be sitting in front of him.
Then he gave me my instructions.

Andy: "When I say go, run as fast as you can, and go off the cliff. Stay straight."
Me: "Ok. Wait, what do I do?!"
Andy: "GO!"
Me: "(crap!) Okaaaayyyy!!!!"

And I ran for the edge of the cliff.

Actually, that was the difficult part since the paraglide pulls you back as it catches air and you have to fight it and make sure you lift off straight from the cliff. But before I knew it, my feet were off the ground and we were gliding.

We spent a good 20 minutes up there. He let me steer a bit and that thrilling! We just swung side to side, bobbed up and down depending on the wind. Finally, he took us high up and glided over to the beach we started from. We would have landed in front of Luciano huts over on the main beach but didn't have enough wind.

I imagined landing would be tough and expected to eat some sand but it was surprisingly easy. It was gentle, like a butterfly landing on your nose. Just had to remember to keep my legs strong since the paraglide pulls back.

Oh what an amazing experience! If anyone finds themselves in Arambol in Goa, just walk up the beach to Arambol Hammocks and ask Andy to take you. While other places charge 300r less, he is much more experienced and he takes you out longer.

Holy Hindu cow, I went flying!

Epic feast

2010-12-13T19:03:00.001+09:00

It was our last night in Arambol so we decided to have a semi-nice dinner. However, we were NOT expecting to gorge ourselves silly, which is what actually happened, to put it lightly.
Now, remember I had a piece of cake and pie that afternoon. Then I went and had this dinner. Boy can I eat, haha.

Ok so what did we have? We started with some tropical drinks, of course. Sophie and JM had one with coconut fenny. Fenny is a sweet liquor made in Goa. I have yet to actually try it but they're fans of it. Me, being on antibiotics, ordered a mocktail and this is how it went.

Me: "Could I get a pinacolada without any rum?"
Waiter, with a confused look: "Then why don't you just order some pineapple juice with coconut?"
Me after a long pause: "Because I didn't want to feel left out...?"
Sophie and JM tried to be supportive by calling it a mocktail and the waiter walked away, laughing.

He brought out three drinks with umbrellas pierced through some fruit and I was happy.

For dinner, JM and I picked out a rock fish from the catch of the day and had them prepare it with tandori spices. That's what you see in the photo. It was huge and cooked to perfection. I enjoyed working through the head and I gave JM an eye to try. He liked it!

Sophie got an order of their momos (Nepalese dumplings) and Greek salad.

So far so good right? Yeah, it was and we should have stopped there but we just had to have more sugar so we ordered dessert.

I got pineapple fritters with chocolate sauce and honey, which were DA BOMB!

Sophie and JM got something called a buffon or something like that. It's fried bread with fruits and covered in chocolate sauce. Sounds awesome right? It was!!!

It would have been so bad if we had just gotten one. They were huge! And we were stuffed! And we went home, to bed, with food/sugar coma.

Fried pineapple!

2010-12-13T19:02:00.000+09:00

I never knew it would be so good!!

Fruit buffon

2010-12-13T18:55:00.000+09:00

It's huge!!!!! (that's what she said (^_-))

Mokanut pie

2010-12-12T21:06:00.001+09:00

I over indulged and got this as well. It had the best consistency than any other cakes in the area. It was actually moist. The others are usually a bit too dry. I can't say exactly what was in it except for chocolate and lots of butter. It might had some cashew nut essence, coffee, and condensed milk as well.

Mango pie

2010-12-12T21:06:00.000+09:00

Technically it's a mango crumble. It's just as good as the mango pie, maybe a little better. It's from one of the dozen "German Bakery" in the area. I think the Indians here think that's the word for bakery. I dont think they're all run by the same people. They have similar selections but only one of them in Arambol, as far as I know, has mango pie and crumble.

I don't know why having mangoes in pie seems so strange or unique to me because it makes sense. Like apples, mangos are sweet and slightly tart. And their texture is similar to peaches.

I think this is a new favorite pie, after pecan and French silk of course. I can't wait to make some for The Fourth next year.

Burekes

2010-12-12T21:05:00.001+09:00

Yeah Sophie's eating! Her appetite's been a bit off lately. Maybe the mid day snacks of cakes, pies, and cookies aren't such a good idea.

Anyway she's eating a bureke, also from Shimon's. It's a mix of feta, mozzarella, and olive wrapped in filo dough (I love buttery filo!!), and grilled on a panini maker. It's served with mashed tomatoes,like a mild salsa, and a boiled egg. The combo of savory and fresh makes this a delightful treat. Apparently I need to go discover Israel and its food. So good!

Ginger lemon mint frozen

2010-12-12T21:05:00.000+09:00

Yes, we went back to Shimon's and I have discovered another amazing blended drink. It's a refreshing virgin mojito! I'd seek out some rum but I'm not supposed to mix alcohol with my antibiotics. 3 more days! I'm feeling much better.

Luciano guest house

2010-12-12T20:27:00.000+09:00

This is where we stayed in Arambol. Ok so it wasn't a typical hut but still had a rustic feel to it which was pleasant. The location was perfect- convenient but not on the main drag. The service was excellent, very friendly and helpful.
Their tuna sandwiches were good too.

We leave for Hampi tomorrow. I'm sad to go.

Sick update

2010-12-10T15:37:00.001+09:00

I felt worse as the day progressed so Sophie walked with me to the clinic. The small office had posters concerning urology which I took as a good sign. I knew I had a kidney infection, just needed the doc to give me the right pills.

When he arrived, he check my blood pressure, asked me a few questions and then concluded my diagnosis was right. He didn't confirm with a urine or blood analysis but he didnt seem to sport such equipment in his office. Oh well, I think the pills are working. I think we'll hang out here just a bit longer. 10 hour bus ride to Hampi doesnt sound bearable at the moment.

Sent from my iPhone

Sick

2010-12-09T15:18:00.000+09:00

I felt weak and my stomach churned in pain. I felt feverishly hot and then the chills shook me down to the bone. I had soup for dinner and then went to bed. I was cold but had a temperature so I put on more clothes. Half an hour later I was burning up and my temperature climbed even higher so I took it all off, popped two advils and begged for sleep.

The fever has passed but I still feel weak and my back.. my kindeys are irritated. I hope this too will pass without much trouble. I saw a hospital while driving around on the scooter and by the looks of it, I think I'm better off self medicating. Should things get worse, there is a clinic here that advertises taking blood and stool samples, whee!

No, if I dont get any better then I will contact World Nomads and maybe fly back to Japan. Of course, after I recover, I should still have time to meet Sophie back in Delhi to see the Taj, hehe.

So, this is the real tourist visa, ay? Well, at least I'm on the beach. That's right. I may feel like absolute crap but I'm still smiling!

Oh India!

Henna

2010-12-09T00:39:00.001+09:00

We were sunbathing when a girl came up with a folder and started small talk with us. As the conversation progressed I became more aware of her command in English so I asked her how she learned the language. Her reply: "The beach."

Ah, silly me to think that she had gone to school.

Anyway she was 16 and had been working on the beach for at least 8 years so I played the bargaining game with her got a henna tattoo. It's so cliche and culturally incorrect and perhaps disrespectful of me but this is what she had offered.

Don't worry, I am wearing a top.

Anjuna beach

2010-12-08T22:57:00.000+09:00

took the bikes out and headed south. Anjuna was nice but I didn't like how there were huge scratchy rocks in the water.

Pretty beach to lay on though.

Fresh squeezed juice

2010-12-08T17:30:00.000+09:00

I can live off this for the rest of my life. It's just freshly squeezed pineapple or mango or tangerines. It doesn't need anything else- no ice, yogurt, or supplements like how Jamba Juice ruins it.

As pure and satisfying as nature comes.

Sunset dinner

2010-12-07T22:46:00.000+09:00

Here are my prawns. I finished the plate. Tonights winner though was Sophie and her red snapper cooked to tender perfection. We finished our meal with dessert and a pot of masala chai. I poured the chai on top of my ice cream. I am very satisfied.

Sunset

2010-12-07T21:27:00.000+09:00

Sitting at Out Back bar watching the sunset as we sip out red wine while waiting for our lobster and jumbo prawn dinner. Life is so hard.

Indian wine

2010-12-07T21:23:00.000+09:00

Sorry the last post went out before I could edit it. We decided to try another bottle of red. This is from Grover Vineyard in Nandi Hills. It's a Cabernet-Shiraz from 2007. It's not bad. Better than last night. I think I could give India a chance in the wine industry. My favorite is still Flying Goat from SB, though. Man I need to get a bottle.

Indian wine

2010-12-07T14:06:00.000+09:00

India has a growing wine industry and is actually getting some recognition.
We had wine in Mumbai but it was not stored properly so it tasted like cold red wine vinegar. But last night JM just had to get a bottle so we tried our luck again. I don't know what kind of grapes were used but it tasted sweet, like a mild port.

Oreo ice coffee shake

2010-12-07T13:59:00.000+09:00

From Shimon

Mandrem beach

2010-12-06T21:35:00.001+09:00

Just down the sand from Arambol. It's a quiet getaway when your original getaway can get to you from all the burnt out hippies, fat old men in thongs (and I don't mean sandals), unshaven women (not a completely bad thing), and fornicating dogs practicing the Karma Sutra right where you want to step.

It's the prayer room in paradise.

JM's ride

2010-12-06T21:29:00.002+09:00

Don't worry Mary, your daughter rode with me, mostly.

Breezing along the coast

2010-12-06T21:28:00.001+09:00

We had to do it. It's too much fun and the beaches are way too beautiful and plentiful to not rent a set of wheels and drive around. For 150r a day it might be the cheapest way to kill ourselves but mothers and fathers, we know you would have taken the same opportunity when you were our age. Actually, I think some of you still would.

I would have preferred a helmet but they don't offer them so when in India...

We drove along the coast, up and down hills, and through the inland jungles. We came across mostly secluded beaches and pretty local Hindu temples.

JM got a motorcycle and I stuck to the scooter. Sophie rode on the back. I would love to rent the motorcycle but Ive never driven a manual anything. Would this be a good time to start?

The best pita sandwich in the world

2010-12-06T20:40:00.001+09:00

I'm really not exaggerating by that statement. I've eaten a lot of different pita combinations from all over and seriously, this wins hands down. I had it at Shimon's Falafel in Arambol Beach. It's the Sabikh that has grilled eggplant, boiled egg, homus tehina, fries and fresh chopped tomatoes, cucumber and onion. The flavor combination and texture are perfect. I don't know what's in their sauce but it's so damn good, they should keep it a secret. I also know they use quality ingredients because the vegetables had natural sweetness, especially the eggplant. They also advertise using only mineral water to prepare their dishes so I felt safe eating the raw veggies.
And you know it's serious stuff when every pita is handed to you in a plastic bag so you don't miss a single bite of the good stuff.

I'm def. going back there for breakfast but not just for the pita. I saw banana and twix/mars/ snickers bar shakes on the menu. Breakfast of champions right there. Mmmmm can't wait!

Oh and Shimon would like me to you that he is reopening the same shop in Delhi in March. I hope it is exactly the same.

Watermelon

2010-12-06T17:19:00.000+09:00

JM got a watermelon for 80r. It was juicy and sweet. Sophie told us we could get sick because the watermelon could contain traces of the bacteria in the water. She had some anyway. That was yesterday and we're still not sick. Touch wood.

Deadly prices

2010-12-06T17:15:00.000+09:00

A woman named Alexandria came over to sell some cloth. She wanted 550 each. I told her that's one night in our beach hut. Sophie and I bargained and got 2 for 550. Then JM came over and said he'd get one for 150. Alex was like,"What are you trying to do, kill me?" She eventually gave in. Go JM.

Cola

2010-12-06T17:11:00.000+09:00

My definition of perfect beach time: surf, sun, beach and a nice cool crisp diet coke. The Coca Cola company should pay me.

Go a Goa!

2010-12-05T13:23:00.001+09:00

We made it! We are on the beach!
We found a place for 550r a night. That's like $4 per person a night- with hot running water! I'm so happy!

Chai

2010-12-05T13:21:00.002+09:00

My first taste of the real stuff. Delicious.

And yeah that's veg masala dosa on the plate. We ate at a restaurant called Kailash. Way better than Prashanth except the fruit juices come second. Still damn good though.

JM came up with a thought. If they're so keen on not letting food or anything touch the left hand, how do they cook the food? Do they cook single-handed, and if so, are the kitchens filled with twice as many cooks? :)

Veg pattiyala

2010-12-05T13:21:00.000+09:00

Is the name of this dish at Prashanth. I guess we'd call it a curry but this is pretty much how most dishes come. They're flavorful, filling and cheap. This was 70r which is 130yen or $1.50- awesome!!

Cave 16

2010-12-05T13:20:00.001+09:00

This is the Kailasa Temple. Well, the photo shows only a fraction of the place. It's all cut out of rock with hammer and chisel over 150 years by 7000 workers.

To get here we took a local bus for 20r. It was a bumpy and thrilling hour ride.

I was told the bus to Ellora departs from bus stand 8. We went and got on a bus parked there. I asked people around me if this went to Ellora. A handful of people said yes but when the bus started, more people started saying no. We got off and I asked that bus driver where the one to Ellora was parked. He said, "Ugh, ugh" as he nodded his head to the back. I don't speak caveman but I took it to mean bus parked at what should be called stand 8a. We hopped on as it departed and clung on the hand rail.

On the way back we had to flag the bus down, run after it, and bang on the door before we could ride it. It's these small adventures in the daily life of traveling that I enjoy and have come to crave from time to time.

Ellora caves

2010-12-05T13:19:00.002+09:00

The caves were beautiful and well preserved considering some date back to 600AD.

Though everyone talks about cave 16, the Kailasa Temple, as they should, my favorite is cave 10, the Buddhist one in the photo.

Rickshaw

2010-12-05T13:19:00.000+09:00

Why are they calked this I do not know but they are a fun and convenient form of transport. I enjoy using them as practice for my bartering skills.

Last night we needed a ride back to the hotel. We flagged one down and asked the driver, "How much?"
"For you three? 40 Rupees."
"What? No. The man inside said it shouldn't cost more than 15."
"Ok, I take you for 20 because I need to make a U-turn."
"Then we'll just cross the street."
"Ok, ok, come for 15 Rupees."

10 cents or yen is nothing but it will add up over multiple rides a day over the next two months. Plus, I don't like being taken advantage of just because I'm a foreigner. So, I will make my mother proud and play the haggling game.

I'll be a pro by next week.

The watering hole

2010-12-05T13:18:00.001+09:00

Ok it's a wall. I'm fascinated by these. I don't know why. Jean-Marc thinks it's because I died of thirst in the desert in my previous life. Maybe. I guess it's because it's clean water by India's standards but if we drink from it we'd be screwed. I just wonder where the water comes from and how they keep these booths clean.

I've noticed it's customary to not let your mouth touch the rim of water bottles. I wonder if that helps.

Night train 2

2010-12-05T13:17:00.001+09:00

Some food one of the teachers of the wild school boys shared with us. The red is mango slices pickled with sweet chili. There's a veg curry mix in the rice. The white is yogurt.

Once they are done they just throw everything out the window. I was shocked to see everyone do this so absent-mindedly. I had to put my hand over my mouth to prevent myself from blurting out something culturally insensitive. I pretended the curry was too spicy to explain my strange behavior.

In Japan there are very few trash cans but that has kept the cities clean because you become aware of how much waste you create and because there are less trash cans to overfill.

In India, it doesn't matter if there are bins or not, you just toss it aside. I don't think I will get used to this and that's not a bad thing.

Night train

2010-12-05T13:16:00.004+09:00

Wasn't there a song by that title back in '96?

Anyway, here's Sophie looking out from the door that was kept open the whole ride.

We bought some salwar kameez to help blend in and to deal with the heat. They are incredibly light and cooling. Much better than a tank top and short shorts.

Waiting

2010-12-05T13:16:00.002+09:00

At the station in Mumbai.

McDs

2010-12-05T13:16:00.000+09:00

You know I had to try it.

I got a McVeg burger meal with mint yogurt sauce and some chicken McNuggets. It all tasted just like McD does everywhere. The Veg burger was just a fried potato croquette with some diced bell peppers in it. It wasn't bad. Sophie just had the nuggets. JM got their veg version of the Big Mac and something called the McAloo Tika which was just the McVeg with a special sauce. That sauce was good though. It was like sweet curry.

McDonalds here does make a good hot fudge brownie sundae, I'll give them that.

Night Bus

2010-12-04T17:52:00.001+09:00

We left Aurangubad at 10pm on a bus with reclining seats. There are no toilets on the bus but it did make a 20 min stop around 11:30pm for a meal and bathroom break. The ride wasn't so bad except I did get really creeped out by the small cockaroaches that sometimes climbed onto my seat and the wall next to me. Yuck.
I just put on my hoodie over my head, my eye mask on and tried to sleep. It would have been a successful full-night worth of sleep had the bus driver not honk his obnoxious and overly loud and squeaky horn every 5 minutes. Oh well, it's all part of the India experience.

We got into Kolhapur around 7am, checked in our room and again, crashed on the bed. I got up around 10am to look for a bottle of water, get some cash and to find a bus to Goa. We've been looking forward to the beach in Goa ever since we arrived and honestly, I wouldn't mind just staying along this side of the coast for the rest of the trip. I might get my scuba diving license which would be really fun and useful! I cannot wait for massages, yoga classes, paragliding, kite surfing, and anything else they have to offer!

Anyway, the only buses to Goa leave at night from 11:30pm-2:30am. We're going to take the 2:30am and get in at 8am. Our goal is Arambol where there's a burnt out hippie and alternative beach scene. But it's still supposed to be a beautiful area with some of the best food in Goa. We're craving real pizza.

Actually, we had pizza last night and got pretty sick. The pizza came with diced green peppers that were not cooked and apparently you're not supposed to eat uncooked, unpeeled peppers or anything else for that matter. I had to take two kinds of pills before my stomach settled. The stabbing pains have subsided but we all still feel a bit uneasy though. Both Sophie and JM have already been sick and paid the "real tourist visa". I have yet to get mine. I really hope I dont.

I think we're all going to try the liquid diet of fresh fruit juices and chai. Maybe throw in some roti and naan once in a while too :)

Ahhhh the beach is less than 24 hours away. I hope we make it!!!!!!!!

At the bar

2010-12-03T19:49:00.000+09:00

Most Indians don't drink I think for religious reasons. If they do it's only in big cities and tourist areas like Goa. Cafe Mondegar, a popular tourist spot frequented by more foreigners than locals, only served beer and wine. Hard alcohol was "strictly forbidden."

We went to Leopold's Cafe, another tourist hub. We had a shot of tequila and a cocktail each. Of course I had a gin and tonic with lime. JM had Jack D with three tiny ice cubes. Sophie had a minty gin flip.

We didn't feel a thing.

Are you bad?

2010-12-03T16:13:00.001+09:00

That's what Sophie and I call Aurangabad since we had a hard time pronouncing it the first couple days.
We got here via night train from Mumbai. It was a 7 hour journey and they only had tickets for second class sleeper seats which I thought was going to be horribly hot and cramped but turned out much better than expected. I am so glad that I dont mind roughing it. Im sure that if the US health department or the fire department were to see the train then they'd shut it down within seconds since it is dirty and people try to fit as many as they can on one seat bench. I guess they dont mind having multiple people per ticket. Anyway, the sleeper was really just a cot, 3 bunked together. The only pillow and blanket is whatever you have in your pack (I am sooo glad I brought my neck pillow at the last second). This ride was particularly fun because there was a group of like 40 school boys who were eager to practice their English and French with us. Sure their singing kept us up during the night but it was all part of the charm. What I found most interesting was that they kept the doors open so really, just one wrong step and you could have fallen out of the train.

We arrived in Aurangabad at 4:30 in the morning. We slept til 10 and got ready for the day. We started off with lunch at one of the restaurants LP recommended. It had a nice patio dining area and their fruit juices were absolutely amazingly delicious. Think fresh fruit puree with no sugar and water added. The down side of the place...

Ok the power just went out and we are on the hotels back up generator which is not very stable so I will just end things here. I guess you'll just have to wait to hear more. We should be in Goa in two days which should have a more reliable power and internet source. I might even get some wifi to post photos from my iphone.

We leave for Kolhapur tonight on a 10 night bus leaving at 9:30pm. We'll spend a day there and then head to Arambol in Goa for about a week of beach. Jean Marc and I are excited to rent scooters. Sophie said she'll take a taxi. I sure we can persuade her. I'll let you know. Bye for now!

Breakfast

2010-11-30T17:39:00.000+09:00

Curry, chipati bread, boiled egg and banana.

It's interesting eating with my right hand. Painfully difficult when trying to tare bread. I can just imagine what my Mr. Manners Otto would say.

Actually reminds me of when I was two, sitting in the high chair eating my Cheerios. I don't think I have ever recalled that memory before.

Himalayas 2

2010-11-30T17:30:00.001+09:00

Crazy taxi

2010-11-30T17:29:00.000+09:00

The driver stops for nothing and nobody except maybe a cow. Too bad there were none on the street at 4:00 in the morning on the way to the hotel.

They honk to let you know of there presence as well as to get you to move. There are hardly any cross walks here, and even those are mere guidelines. Lanes are an ever changing mental image and personal space is an inefficient vacuum that will quickly be filled.

Think high-stakes dodgeball. I will never be picked last again.

Himalayas from the plane

2010-11-30T17:20:00.000+09:00

Majestic.

Air India

2010-11-28T10:43:00.001+09:00

I hear it smells... Like curry :D
I'll let you know.

UPDATE: doesn't smell yet but I have to say that even though I got the cheapest seats and have to sit in the second to last row, this is the most spacious economy class seat I've sat in! Way to go Air India!

Ok one more

2010-11-28T10:38:00.000+09:00

My last Japanese meal til Feb!

I always eat tempura zaru udon when I'm in Narita. I don't know why, I just love it!

Ready to go!

2010-11-28T09:22:00.000+09:00

This is all I'm bringing to India.

I have my veteran Columbia backpack that I took with me when I moved to Denmark. It's about 10kg. I just bought the Lowepro shoulder bag. It's actually a padded camera bag for my canon that can expand to the size you see here to hold other things as well. I packed three books and lots of snacks (^-^) so it weighs about 6kg. Then I have the navy tote bag filled with more snacks and 4 rolls of plush toilet paper, teehee!

Well, I'm just waiting in line to check in. I can't believe it's happening but I know it won't really hit until maybe a week after I get there or Delhi will slap me in the face as a rude wake up call during my layover. Yeah, that's more likely.

I hope Sophie and I will have no trouble finding each other in Mumbai. I'm sure that'll turn into a funny story.

Ok my turn is up. Sayonara Tokyo!

Shabu shabu

2010-11-26T00:27:00.000+09:00

From dinner with Yuka. Yeah, it's a good alternative go turkey.

Not thanksgiving dinner

2010-11-26T00:03:00.000+09:00

No thanksgiving for us in Tokyo this year.

Instead I had dinner with my friend Yuka. She took me to a great shabu shabu place in Ebisu. We had it 2 ways- kimuchi and regular. Yum!

When I got home I whipped this up for Yuma: Japanese yam called sato imo stewed in miso, ginger pork with eggplant, miso soup, rice, and mixed salad.

He's happy. d(^_^o)

JHV

2010-11-24T17:29:00.001+09:00

I just came from lunch with my favorite dining buddy, my foodie mentor of Tokyo. He treated me to JHV Wine and Marriage, a French wine bar in Kamiyacho who serves all 200 of their wines by the glass.

The restaurant was packed. Unfortunately, we arrived right when all of Tokyo's busy salary men decide to break for lunch en masses.

Though a bit chill, it's a beautiful cloudless day so we decided to forgo the seats at the bar for the terrace.

My mentor is a very busy man, not to mention I have my own hectic schedule. It's not very often we have a chance to share a table together but when we do, it calls for a mini celebration, usually involving a more than necessary extravagance to the often casual meal.

Today we helped ourselves to JHV's sirloin steak served with a generous portion of red wine butter. Yes, the combination is a match made in foodie heaven! What a perfectly simple decadence.

Of course, I also helped myself to a glass of Pinot Noire. I do take a tremendous amount of pleasure in enjoying a glass of wine at lunch on a weekday. The name of the wine escapes me at this moment so I'll have to get back to you on that.

What I really enjoy about JHV is the service. There is true care and desire to provide excellent service. You can tell each individual customer is special to the servers. Their intentions are genuine and they create a relaxing and effortless atmosphere while maintaining their sophistication.

But now for the less enjoyable part of this review. Yes, there is always room for improvement and I find nitpicking unnecessary, but I believe these minor points are worth mentioning and if changed, could provide for an even better dining experience.

First, my soup was served in an espresso cup (or something similar). It's a cute idea but do you know how difficult it is to drink chunky vegetable soup from such a tiny cup? Not to mention how awkward it is? It would have been fine had the soup been a portage, consome, or puree- anything smooth that I could have easily sipped, like an espresso. I didn't even want to attempt eating from it.

Second, I wish they took more care in the quality of the meat they served. I know it's lunch and sirloin is an easy option (when balancing customer satisfaction and profits) but when serving with such a generous portion of wine butter, I think the meat should have been trimmed of some of the excess fat, especially if they don't intend to serve the dish with a steak knife. It's difficult to carry on a conversation when you have to work on the plate.

And lastly, they could really use to improve their dessert, at least the apple tart. I saw the apple but do not remember tasting it. There was too much pastry and it was tough. It looked and tasted more like a biscuit rather than a pastry. I did not enjoy trying to cut it with a spoon.

Alright, the pain is over; no more critiques.

Despite those minor setbacks, JHV is a wonderful venue and I do recommend wine lovers to venture to Kamiyacho and marvel at their selection. If only I didn't live across town, you know I'd be there every night, working my way through the list, one glass at a time.

iPhone blogging test

2010-11-24T00:51:00.001+09:00

Since iPhone has no free apps that will allow me to post directly to
blogger, especially with photos, I'm going to try this loop hole. I'm
using the Mail2Blogger function and sending it from my gmail account
on my phone. I hope this works!

November update

2010-11-22T15:02:00.000+09:00

I finally gave in and bought an iPhone which is how I'm able to update now and hopefully more frequently. Well, I don't know how it'll go in India but I'll try.

The fall 2010 tour season is over and i think overall it went well. It's a fun job but it is hard to stay enthusiastic about all the cities and activities you're taking people to. It's like, "oh there's Mt. Fuji, again... Nope, hasnt changed. It's still there." But then again it's better than being stuck in an office, getting excited about a new copy machine or a different flavor coffee.
It's also been a good lesson in patience. I have very little of it and I hate it when people don't listen to what I say or when they are lazy and don't use their own brain to figure things out. But just because I'm like that doesn't mean the whole world is either, or even should be (though I wish!). I can't let all of their mindless questions slide if it means they can enjoy their holiday which I am facilitating :)

Spring season doesn't begin until March so off to India I go for two and a half months. I plan on being back in Tokyo on Feb. 18.

Anyway, Yuma and I are just on our way home from Hakone. We decided to give ourselves an early Christmas present by taking Monday off and getting a suite with an outdoor private bath. Yeah, it was awesome.

All I have to do when I get back is pack for India. My plane leaves on the 28th. I hope to finally blog about Europe until then! I would have done it sooner but I actually had a paper to write for a professor. And just like in college, I waited to the last minute and wrote into the night. But man I really enjoyed it! I had forgotten how peaceful reading, typing, and thinking late into the night could be. I miss living in the library during finals week. Oh well, hopefully next year I'll apply and get myself back on campus by 2012. You know, before the Mayan calendar runs out and the world ends... ;)

Oh did I mention passenger number 12 caught up to us and the tour ended well? I met some awesome couples. They don't have kids which is how they're able to travel so much and enjoy a two week tour. I want to be able to do that. Oh well, that thought's for another time.

Ok almost home so gtg. Byes!

No Burrito

2010-11-08T00:59:00.001+09:00

I'm in Hiroshima with the group now and tonight, for the first time this tour, I made it free night. I look forward to this night during the tour. It's the one night I get to have completely to myself. And while I used to rather go hungry than have to dine at a place alone, I have learned to enjoy it, sometimes even prefer it after my revolutionary solo trip to Thailand. I like being able to savor my dinner, quietly, and give my undivided attention to the food in front of me and the atmosphere of the restaurant. Don't get me wrong, I am happy to answer questions about Japanese food, eating etiquette, random questions and engage in even more random conversations but a girl needs a break! So, tonight was MY night and I had very much looked forward to it.

Another thing about this night is that I get to go to any place I want. Meaning, it doesn't have to be Japanese food. I know, I say I can't live without it, but eating rice every day, at least twice a day gets old and I start to crave anything but Japanese food. The problem is, as always, Japan doesn't do non-Japanese food very well. I think its because Japan has a really low immigrant population which hinders "true-" and "sub- culture" to flourish. We have all sorts of restaurant but most flavors are far from authentic.

Well, tonight, I have reached a new low in disappointing Mexican cuisine in Japan. I don't know why I thought this place would be different- actually, I think it's because they advertised that they'd lived and trained in San Diego, CA. But I should have just know it was all lies! ...Well, it may be true they once lived there but I presume they were ignorant of all the hole-in-the-wall taco joints and greasy vendor vans... Or maybe Japanese just don't get Latin flavors like their taste buds are different or something. Whatever the reason, there is NO WAY anyone in Cali would ever let what he served tonight fly as a burrito or anything reminiscent of Mexican. It was the saddest burrito that had ever been served in front of me.

At first glance it looked fine and I even excitedly took a photo of it on my phone and sent it to Yuma. But when I took a closer looked.. it wasn't pretty. I ordered their spicy chicken burrito. The menu said it was filled with cabbage.. cabbage? I asked the waiter to replace it with fresh, crisp lettuce, like it should be. Well, it wasn't cabbage but it wasn't lettuce either. I was just.. herb salad mix? I know there are limits to getting fresh ingredients in Japan, at least for a reasonable price so I let that go.

What else was in the burrito? Not much. There was the salad mix and the chicken and.. nothing else.. strange... where's the rice and beans? Nonetheless, I took a bite. Holly, I could barely get it down, it was so horrible! I asked for Tapatio (Yeah! They had Tapatio! How could they mess it up?!) But even my beloved Tapatio didn't work. I pushed the plate away from me, sad and perplexed by what was happening. I asked for a burrito and this was... not a burrito.

I called the waiter over and, remembering to be polite and give him the benefit of the doubt, asked how they came to open this establishment. Once, I started saying that this wasn't what I was expecting, he called his brother over who happened to be the cook. I thought of the countless times I stood in line watching the people behind the counter make and swiftly wrap my precious, often gigantic, burritos from beloved joints such as Chipotle and La Salsa.

I asked the cook, "Don't burritos usually come with rice, beans, cheese, meat, lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream and guac...?"
Arms crossed, he answered, "Different places have different styles. In Mexico, they serve the fillings on the side."
"Isn't this a Mexican place?... If so, where are the sides?" I asked sheepishly.
Annoyed, he pointed to the small scoop of pico, sour cream and guac.
"Yessss... but, where are the rice in beans?"
"I don't make it that way and this is how we made it in San Diego." (Oh really??)
"Well, I've never been to San Diego but I've been as far as Orange County and I've always had it with rice and beans..." He stood his ground.

Normally, I would say that this was unacceptable and would ask (err, politely demand) for another dish or to take it off the bill. I think I was just so struck by how utterly depressing this whole experience was turning out, I let him go and stared at the plate. I thought I'd at least give it another try... nope, not any better. Their salsa/pico tasted like rotting onions. For one, the produce was diced too finely which made it soupy and very unpleasant to look at. The guac was nothing but a scoop of mushed avocado that had been sitting out too long. It was grey. The chicken? Now, this was the strangest part of the dish. I asked for spicy chicken so you'd expect flavors like cumin, chilies, oregano, cinnamon, etc. What I got instead was butter and ...soy sauce?

SOY SAUCE?! ARE YOU KIDDING ME?! Ok, I'm cool with fusion cooking and find some dishes to be great but you really have to know what you're doing and have to be a master of both cuisines before you start mixing everything from your pantry. Therefore, I am not opposed to mixing Asian and Latin flavors, as long as it comes from a pro. The cook tonight? No bueno.

I was hungry and I wanted to eat but there was no way I was going to have another bite of whatever that was on my plate. I got up, paid the bill and left. Then what did I do? I went to Mc Donalds. Because seriously their chicken nuggets were better than anything on that plate. I think that was my 2nd time going to McD since I came to Japan. I also found out that they don't have Sweet 'n Sour sauce in Japan. :( Yeah, it was a bad night.

Ugh, I don't know why I keep doing this to myself! I should know better that Mexican food in Japan sucks and taking the chance to satisfy my craving will just blow up in my face.

This was a sad night in Erika's history of dining. I hope I can get over it soon..

So, to anyone who might be in the Hiroshima area: DON'T go to Graffity Mexican Diner. Other than the burrito imposer, they serve pepperoni and cheese quesadilla (what is this, pizza?!) and their empanadas looked soggy.

Solo Tour Number 2

2010-11-02T12:05:00.000+09:00

Alright, so I didn't get to post photos from my Europe trip yet.. the hours just slipped away from my fingers and before I knew it, I had to meet my tour group. (I'm not saying sorry anymore b/c then it becomes such a stupid blog and you know what, things happen. What things? LIFE!)

This trip is going to be fun. I feel it in my gut. And I'm not being entirely sarcastic either. Already there have been some "happenings".

Started the trip on a night when Tokyo was all typhoon-y. Not like eye of the storm, crazy wind, can't even go outside rain but enough to change plans. That was one stress to deal with but I had plans b, c, and d so it turned out alright.

There was one thing I couldn't plan for: two people NOT showing up at 6pm in the hotel lobby like their travel agent should have said when they booked the trip. Actually, one of the passengers had left a message at the hotel with his cell number which was helpful but I had no idea until I got there. I called him up and he was stuck in Dubai, probably because of the typhoon. I made arrangements for him and left it up to fate.

The other person is MIA and though I've contacted my manager and the company office in Melbourne but there's no word. I've left messages at the hotel reception just in case she comes while we're out. We'll see how it goes.

---

Ok, so I wrote all the first night but didn't have time to post. Now it is Day 4 and yes, as predicted this is an interesting trip. I feel like the travel gods are having fun messing with me. Usually Nikko is a nice relaxing stop with the onsen and just being out in the country. It has been anything but that for me, mostly from my own doing. It was raining yesterday so I decided to hold off the tour of Toshogu Shrine until the afternoon, hoping that the weather would clear up. Well, we got there and had just started the tour when the gates closed and I was told that we had to leave. It was still raining and the sky was quickly darkening even though it was only 3:30pm. It happened to be the first day of the new winter hours so the grounds close at 3:30pm, not 4:30 like I had originally thought. Oh great. I had to walk back to the group and explain the unfortunate mistake. Now we were stuck at Toshogu in the freezing rain and nothing to do for the next couple hours since we had tickets to go see the "Light Up" of one of the gardens at Toshogu which didn't start until 5pm. And right then my manager left a message saying that passenger number 12 did make it to Japan after all and I need to make arrangements to meet up with her. Ugh, the weight of the world was crashing down on me.

In any case, I took the group to a very small coffee shop right near the shrine and told them that I had to make a few calls about this passenger number 12. I had called earlier in the day to all the hotels and restaurants saying that there would only be 12 of us and not 13 like I had originally planned. I thought that this way they could open up room for other customers. Now I had to call them all back. I also had to contact the hotel that this passenger number 12 was staying at to tell her to call my cell and to please be so kind as to go to the hotel we were supposed to meet in the first place since all the information that I left was there.

Well, I called the hotel and left a message. And just when I finished that, the old lady running the small coffee shop told me that she was closing. It was still only 4:20pm. Ugh!!! Now what? Well, I had made reservations for dinner at another cafe so I gathered the group and explained that we can go there, have some beer before dinner and then come back and see the "Light Up" since that runs until 8pm. Everyone agreed and just when we started heading out, the winds came, the rain started to really pour, thunder and lightening started their gig and the sky turned black. I gave up planning the rest of the night. I gave in to my unfortunate fate.

But my group is awesome. They're so understanding and they seemed to just enjoy themselves. Once we got to the cafe, everyone broke up into violent chatter with conversations flying across the table. I was quite relieved. The beer didn't come for a half hour but no one really seemed to take too much notice.

Dinner went well and we finished around 7:30. That gave us just enough time to run back to the shrine to see the "Light Up" which turned out to be a lot better than I had anticipated and my customers were happy. The rain had stopped then as well and we were able to see stars! yeay!

I planned to take everyone back to Toshogu the next morning before we had to leave for Hakone. We had planned to meet at 8:13am (inside joke), just after breakfast.

I don't know what happened because I got a knock on my door at 8:15am and that's how I woke up. I leaped out of bed, rushed to the door and there was one passenger saying that I had missed the 8:13... I couldn't admit that I had over slept but tried to explain that I had a late night and was stressing out about meeting passenger number 12. Let me diverge for a second. Passenger number 12 was scheduled to arrive in Narita at 1pm. Around 9pm, I called the hotel and asked if she had checked in and received my message since she still hadn't called. I talked to three different people and finally they told me that there is no reservation under that name nor did their system use such a reservation number, which my manager had sent to me. Perfect. She was still MIA, lost, somewhere in Tokyo. I called my manager; she double checked the hotel; she sent emails to Melbourne and her manager and the company; my phone kept going off since I received all the forwarded messages... Needless to say, I didn't get much sleep. Though I had placed two alarms on my phone, I slept through them and now I had less than a minute to get ready and lead the tour. I threw on my clothes, didn't bother doing anything else and bolted down to the lobby. We left that same minute.

The tour went well and now people are still off on their free time. I came back to our hotel and took a quick shower since check out was at 10 am and I walked in the room at 10:02. But I'm ready for the day now and I just pray that the travel gods will give me a break and let today go as planned. I have contacted the manager and she has informed me that passenger number 12 will meet me in Hakone. I have informed the hotel there about the situation and to call me when she arrives. I am very much looking to that phone call.

Wish me luck!